| Joined: |
Dec 3, 2007 08:53 PM |
| Last Post: |
Oct 10, 2008 08:50 PM |
| Last Visit: |
Oct 10, 2008 08:50 PM |
| Website: |
|
| Location: |
|
| Occupation: |
|
| Interests: |
|
| Avatar: |
|
|
| AIM: |
|
| ICQ: |
|
| MSN IM: |
|
| Yahoo IM: |
|
|
Adrift has contributed to 14 posts out of 2604 total posts
(0.54%) in 354 days (0.04 posts per day).
20 Most recent posts:
Give it as much sun and warmth as possible. Nanners are tropical and don't need dormancy the way temperate plants do. They just slow down. Avoid nitrogen fertilizer until spring. Go easy on the watering -- when growth is slow it is easy to over water and cause rot.
Dwarf cavendish often have red flecks and stripes.
Palms do not re-grow in the way that, say maples, oaks, elms do. They have one growing point and if it is gone, the plant is done. If the palm is broken off above the growing point, it should come back fine. (Might want to dose the crown with insecticide to avoid any chance of bugs moving in to the damaged area.) The growing point is generally located about the base of the lowest frond. If you aren't sure, leave it a while and see if it comes back.
Do you mean decorative bananas, or edible bananas? With the exception of acuminata, the edible kind are generally sterile hybrids so cross pollination isn't commonly an issue. Edited by Adrift on Sep 26, 2008 at 10:42 PM
Oh, yeah, if your soil is on the alkaline side you may need to add some iron. Too much phosphorus and alkaline soil can cause yellow leaves by making iron hard to absorb.
Are you adding minors with one of your ferts?
More nitrogen. Nanners need lots of potassium (K), but since you say you are adding potash, you should be OK. Typically use a 2-1-3 ratio with nanners. With granular 6-3-12 you can add a closed handful per leaf per week during the hot months -- a couple of cups per week for an 8 foot tree. But build up to it slowly, watch for water stress,
Wipe with a damp cloth. Stores often sell "leaf polish" but, why?
Bananas generally need full sun, they grow fine in full sun way south of the US. But -- the big but -- they can overheat above 95 degrees or so. I had a nephew live in Phoenix for a while and he sent me a lot of emails talking of temps way above that. I will hazard a guess that the reason for shade is to help cool them in the heat of the day.
So long as the coldest it ever sees is maybe 20 or 25 degrees. A week ago in central FL we had 27 to 28 degrees overnight and the queens looked bluish for a day. They are now showing minor cold damage.
Big problem we have here is alkaline soil, which tends to cause nutrient deficiencies which lead to spindly, yellow, and/or spotted plants. Edited by Adrift on Jan 9, 2008 at 07:58 PM
The fastest queen I've ever seen was in south-central FL. It grew from a 2 frond baby in a 1 Gal. pot to 6 or more feet of stem and total height 12 to 14 feet in 4 years. It was well planted (the pH neutralized from the strongly alkaline native soil, organic matter added to local soil, etc.), fed including Mg, Mn, & K, and watered. Typical is probably half that. With little or no care they may do 3" to 6" per year.
The first year or two in the ground the base will swell. Then up it goes... Edited by Adrift on Jan 9, 2008 at 07:55 PM
I suppose it isn't "necessary" but the stem will not fruit again, however it is consuming water and nutrients. If there are new shoots coming up, then it is time to remove the old stem and let the energy go into a new fruiting stem.
They are edible if you like the way they taste!
Not trying to be funny, but I don't know of any poisonous bananas. "Edible" ones are ones that are soft and sweet, or at least pleasant tasting. "Inedible" bananas are ones that bear fruit that is too small, too hard, or too bitter to bother with. (Usually 2 or 3 of those characteristics.)
Looks to me like you've got some big tasty ones. Knowing when to harvest depends on the species. In general terms, when the flower brach is very dry, and the fruit is plump (not ribbed and "hungry" looking), cut off a hand, take it inside and put it in a paper or plastic bag in a cool (not refrigerated!) place for 18-24 hours. Then remove from bag, put them on counter until as ripe as you like. If they don't ripen well, let the next hand ripen "on the vine" longer before harvest.
Yours still look a little bit ribbed to me. I'd wait a little longer, if weather permits, but as I wrote, it depends on variety.
1. About 2 years from when a shoot comes up is right. It takes 12-15 months for the shoot to grow before the inflorescence comes out, then 3-6 months more to harvest. A potted plant that is 2'-4' tall coming home from a nursery is 12-18 months from harvest. Give lots of food, sun, and water to the new shoot. How strong it gets in the first 3-6 months determines how much fruit it can set a year later.
2. Uh, like it does now, but bigger...
3. The shoot that produces the inflorescence will. The rhizome should not. When the fruit has been harvested, cut that pseudostem off at ground level and allow the next shoot to grow.
4. I trim mine when they look fairly dead.
A corm is another name for the rhizome (the fleshy bulb part of the root). Suckers are the little shoots (pseudostems) that come up from the rhizome.
A plant shouldn't be let to get too big or production will fall. An easy plan is this: One pseudostem can be fruiting (2 years old), another can be growing (1 year old), and a 3rd can just be coming up. More than that should be cut off or cut away and planted separately. When selecting which shoot to keep, pick one a few feet from the others so that they don't compete for light.
In WI, let them get as much light as possible.
50C ? By my calculation that is 122F which is way too hot for nanners. Above 95-100F the leaves scorch, wilt, and leaves grow deformed (small, narrow). Also, bananas like to be damp, but *never* flooded. be careful that you are not overwatering. Edited by Adrift on Dec 3, 2007 at 08:58 PM
|
|