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kahoa has contributed to 32 posts out of 2477 total posts
(1.29%) in 758 days (0.04 posts per day).
20 Most recent posts:
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
banna leaves turning black Oct 24, 2006 04:42 AM
(Total replies: 1)
Aloha Ronnie, If your banana is non-hardy, dig it up ASAP. If it is hardy (some hardy species can grow in Zone 6, so make sure what it is), leave it in the ground. Mulch it heavily. Bales of hay surrounding the plant is very good. After your first hard freeze, cut the plant half way down the trunk or level to the bales of hay. If you have pups near the bottom, just cut their leaves off. Cover the plant with another bale of hay. The plant will go into dormancy. In the spring check for growth when night temps are above freezing. Remove the bales or unravel them around the plant to decompose as a compost mulch to retain soil moisture for the rest of the year. Looks like your plant is of the non-hardy type since you asked about diggng it up and wrapping it to store. I've found the following method for non-hardy banana plants the best. I treat all my plants this way since I live in zone 4-5. I don't wrap them up to store over winter. I've found it difficult to keep conditions just right for 3 months of winter to prevent a banana plant from either drying up or rotting. After I've dug up the plant, and I do this before frost, I plant it in a pot to bring it indoors. Since you live further south you have time to still use this method. I already have freezing temps every night. I use a potting soil high in peat moss like Miracle-Gro instead of soil from the ground. The high acidity from the moss keeps microbial growth down that can cause rot. I keep the humidity up by placing the pot in a tray of water. I let the water dry up occasionally in the tray but not for more than a week. I make sure the soil is moist but not soggy. I don't want to stress the plant since it's still recovering from transplantation. I give the plant as much natural light as possible. Low light is OK but the brighter the better. I keep the temperature above freezing. Upper 30's into the 40's is OK, but 50's is better. You don't want to get temps too much higher since it will encourage too much growth. I don't fertilize. You want to slow the plant growth so that it doesn't get leggy and weak. In the spring bring out the plant after the leaves of trees are more than half full and night temps are non-freezing. Leave it in the deepest shade of a tree or shade cover for a week, then slowly move it towards the sunlight every 2-3 days. By the time the pot is in full sun the ground temperature will be optimum for the plant to grow in. This method is laborious and you have to acclimatize the plant slowly in the spring so as not to sunburn it before putting it back in the ground and you have to get a bigger pot every year as the plant multiplies, but it almost guarentees that the plant will survive the winter. I've found it very disheartening to find the plant I'd wrapped up to store for the winter is dead by spring. Since your plant is frost bitten, cut off all the damaged parts after you've dug it up. It'll be OK if you have to cut the upper trunk off. The plant will regrow from the corm. After you've potted it, after a while you'll see the center of the trunk raise up and a new leaf grow up and out. The corm of the plant is probably untouched by frost since the ground hasn't frozen yet. Treat the plant as recommended above and things should be OK from there on. I hope this info gets to you in time. In my area the plant would probably be dead by now since it's already snowing and the ground is freezing. Let me know how things progress. If you need additional info you're welcome to write. I'll help if I can or point you in the right direction if I know. Aloha, Kahoa
General Discussions. »
Need more information Aug 23, 2006 02:45 PM
(Total replies: 31)
Quote: I am having the same problem, however I have noticed four green sprouts from the base of my plant, not sure if this is corrisponding with the "extreme" leaves changing. I have 6 turning at the same time, and can't help but wonder if I can't find out what is wrong if we'll have any leaves left.. Did you ever get a responce as to what could be wrong? Aloha, --- Original message by Nancy on Aug 21, 2006 02:59 PM Is your plant growing new leaves?. If it is, wait and see. Looks like it's OK if it's doing that and the bottom leaves are old. If not, I'm stumped and will need more detail what is happening starting from when the leaves started turning and any treatment that was done to the plant prior to the turning. The green shoots are probably pups. Congradulations, your plant is a mother and is probably OK. Unhealthy plants usually don't grow pups. Kahoa
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
MY HOUSE IS NOT BIG ENOUGH! Aug 23, 2006 02:35 PM
(Total replies: 8)
Quote: I planted (transplanted from a neighbor) a banana tree to my very sunny backyard two summers ago. Since I live in a semi tropical climate I thought it would fit nicely in the landscaping. It has. The only thing I did when I planted it was to feed it with a fertilizer at that time. Since then I have done nothng to it. This year...O, Yeah...we have some bananas! They are so cute. My question is can I expect them to grow into edible fruit? Is there anything to do at this point other than let them grow? Here on the coast we will have summerlike weather through September and into October. Aloha, The bananas have appeared practically overnight and, of course, I'm out there every morning checking on them.--- Original message by scmonty on Aug 19, 2006 10:49 AM Depends on your species of Musa. If it is a hardy type, you'll probably not get edible fruit. Find out from your neighbor what it is if they know. Remember, if your species is not hardy it may not come back after a hard freeze, even on the coast. Here's a clue, if your neighbor's plant survived the winter in their yard, it will probably survive in your yard. You can feed the plant any time. Now is better than never and it will help mature the fruit faster. Good luck! Kahoa
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
MY HOUSE IS NOT BIG ENOUGH! Aug 23, 2006 02:24 PM
(Total replies: 8)
Quote: I too have a tropical banana tree, Musa, that I planted in the ground in spring..It's now over four feet tall. Aloha Toni,Should I cut it back or try sticking the whole tree in a pot? Thanks, Toni --- Original message by Toni06 on Aug 17, 2006 11:16 PM Try and get the whole tree. 4 feet is nothing. I get 6 feet every year. Good luck! Kahoa
Tropical Community »
How do you promote blooming in gingers? Aug 16, 2006 06:17 PM
(Total replies: 4)
Quote: Flowerin Ginger plants need very humid condition for their healthy growth & for flowering. They need moisture near their roots all the time. However, they can not tolerate water stagnation. They thrive best in semi shade. Aloha Nandan,Nandan Kalbag --- Original message by Nandan Kalbag on Aug 13, 2006 09:58 PM I've been able to grow 2 types or species or varieties (I don't know exactly which) of Hedychium to blooming. However, I have 4 others which have not yet bloomed. I'm sucessful in getting the plants through Winter in the N. American growing zone of 5. Yet these 4 plants have not bloomed. They get the same amount moisture and fertilization as the 2 types that do bloom. Does it depend on the type of hedychium? I would be grateful for any information as these plants come from home in Hawai'i and are sort of my children in a way. Aloha, Kahoa
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
MY HOUSE IS NOT BIG ENOUGH! Aug 16, 2006 03:43 PM
(Total replies: 8)
Mahalo V. Keep me posted on your progress. Hope you convince your company on selling Musa. Aloha, Kahoa
General Discussions. »
Need more information Aug 16, 2006 03:21 PM
(Total replies: 31)
Quote: Thanks for your response I really appreciate it. My plant has 7 leaves, 6 of them are very healthy looking, about 6-8" long. The newest leaf is 3" and it is starting to brown at the tip and then on the sides, this one has no yellowing, it is a nice green color. My leaves earlier would get yellow then split and start to brown on the splits, edges and tips. These were the outside leaves and only get about 10-12" long. The trunk is 2" round and is healthy not mushy or yellow, from the dirt to where the leaves come out it is about 3" high. I live in Idaho where it is fairly dry, I mist every other day, I have had the plant for about 2 mo. and have not fed it yet. Could that be the problem?? If so what kind would I use? If I do use a bug spray what kind can I use that would not be toxic to my children??? (I see no bugs yet). I use to have tons of plants all over, but had to get rid of them because all were toxic to children. This is the first plant time I have had this much trouble. Thanks for all your help. Aloha,--- Original message by spops on Aug 10, 2006 12:30 PM I would fertilize the plant. It wouldn't hurt but will definitely help. I suggest Miracle-gro Liquid soluble fetilizer. It dependable and safe if you follow the directions. If you find bugs, use a diluted mixture of Dawn soap (1/4 tsp to a gallon) and spray with that. By what you've written, it's looks like normal ageing of the leaves and maybe some dry atmosphere. Try and keep it out of the wind and mist more if you can. If you can't mist more then leave the pot in a container of some kind with an inch or two of water. Still, whatever is happening will probably not kill your plant. Aloha, Kahoa
General Discussions. »
Need more information Aug 16, 2006 03:10 PM
(Total replies: 31)
Aloha Mica, Pick the fruit when they look more rounded and full. At this point they should more or less have corners or ridges parrallel to the length of the fruit. When the space in between fills out and seems to swell out, that is close to picking time. The fruit will at the same time start to pale and turn yellowish (or dark and red depending on the species and variety). Don't wait until the fruit is fully ripe. If you do insects may get to the fruit before you do. Hope this helps. Aloha! Kahoa
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
MY HOUSE IS NOT BIG ENOUGH! Aug 8, 2006 02:05 AM
(Total replies: 8)
Aloha Island Gardener, Sounds like your in Hawai'i or someplace like that. Also sounds like you got a monster on hand. Zone 5b? If you got a Hardy type you probably be able to leave it in the ground with a hell of a lot of mulch (1 foot thick minimum). If I'm right about the hardiness and you put enough mulch (on second thought 2 feet would be just right for 5b and the plant being hardy), the plant will die back to the corm and come back next Spring. If it is NOT a hardy type or if you don't want to bet on it, do what you did last Fall. You'll have to walk around it and ask the pardon of all your guests. They'll probably admire it but look at you weird. Don't worry I get weird looks too. You could dig it up, cut most of the leaves, maybe all, and have the corm go into dormancy, but it's tricky. And I'm not an expert in that area. I'm lucky that I have space. I keep my in pots, which I quess keeps them to a smaller size. They're still 6-7 feet tall and about 5-6 feet wide. If you don't want to dig up the plant every year, do what I do and keep it in a pot. Especially if you're going for looks and not fruit. I do hope you find someone who is more an expert on putting bananas to bed during the Winter if that's what you end up having to do because of the size of your plant. Sounds like your doing the right things though with the plant growing that large. Congradulations! Aloha and I wish you Good Luck, KAHOA
General Discussions. »
Need more information Aug 8, 2006 01:27 AM
(Total replies: 31)
Aloha Mica, Yes, some write to cut off the pups so as to let the mother plant give all to the fruiting. My experience has been otherwise in Hawai'i. The best fruit came from trees that were left alone with all their pups, or as we say in Hawai'i, keiki(lit. child). As for fertilizing, now is better than never as banana loves to eat. May be the reason also for the fruit drop. But I'm not sure. Go easy if you do choose to fertilize though. Don't want to burn your plant especially now. I'd use a liquid/water fertilizer as they're the least strong and don't have the tendency to burn. Hope that the last 2 hands survive. Be gentle. And if it all comes to ruin, you still can try again with the pups you had removed, I hope. Keep me posted. Aloha and Mahalo for writing, Kahoa
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
Newcomer Aug 3, 2006 12:02 AM
(Total replies: 4)
Aloha tropi_canuck, Just to let you know, I'm in zone 5/4 in the eastern Upper Peninsula, Michigan, across the river from Sault Ste. Marie, Ont. You're lucky to be where you are! It's just frigid up here during the winter. I think my bananas actually shiver. Too bad you don't have much more room to over winter plants. Since you love tropicals I would have sent you a rhyzome or 2 of hedychium (ginger) I brought over from Hawai'i. I've found the 2 species I have do very well in potted culture. They do TOO well. I have an over abundance but I don't like to kill off the babies. If you are interested let me know. Rhyzomes aren't illegal to cross over the border as long as they don't have soil attached. These plants will bloom indoors in Oct-Nov when most things are dead. And these hedychium blossoms are so very fragrant. You'd think you're in Hawai'i. Aloha Kahoa
General Discussions. »
Need more information Aug 2, 2006 11:28 PM
(Total replies: 31)
Quote: I don't know how to start a new post. My banana tree finally has bananas and was going crazy new ones everyday but all of a sudden they are shriveling up and falling off. I had 3 small pups but I have removed them. Any help? Thanks, Mica Aloha,--- Original message by mica_manson on Aug 1, 2006 01:01 PM To make a new post, there on the bottom of an old post will be 2 boxes. One says Reply and another box that says New Topic. Click on New Topic and a reply box will show up for you to write a new post. They look alike but the Reply box will attach what ever you've written to the old post and the New Topic box will make a new post independant of the old post. Congradulations on getting your plant to bloom. But you didn't need to remove the pups. In fact the mother plant may have bloomed earlier if you didn't and the pups would have grown bigger faster. Banana have 2 types of flowers when they bloom. Fertile female flowers and infertile male flowers. They both look alike to the untrained eye. The female flowers bloom first. The petals dry up, fall off and the back of the flower eventually grows long and swells into fruit. The male flowers come out next, bloom, then shrivel up and fall off. Is this what's happened? The amount of female flowers mostly depends on how healthy a plant is. There will be less fruit on an unthealthy plant than a healthy one. Fruit will shrivel and drop off if there is any great trauma or shock to the mother plant such as removal of pups during blooming. The amount of female flowers on a plant also depends a little on what banana species it is. Some species, especially those that bear seeds in their fruit may have only 3 or 4 hands of fruit. As compared to species grown commercially for nonseeded fruit having as many as 20 hands. In all species, the plant will continue to bloom for a long period of time without any more fruit developement. So you end up with several hands of fruit and a long bare stalk with a flowering bud at the end. After fruiting the mother plant will begin to die. But this happens slowly and usually there will be pups to replace the mother plant. Hopefully what I have wriiten has helped you understand what your plant is going through. If you have any questions you are welocome ask away. I'll help what I may. Aloha Kahoa
General Discussions. »
Need more information Aug 2, 2006 10:33 PM
(Total replies: 31)
Quote: I am new to your site, over the last couple of days I have read alot of information about growing and problems banana plants can have, My banana plant is a dwarf musa of some kind, The leaves are turning yellow and then brown, I have made sure it has enough water, it gets enough sunlight, and the pot it's in is perfect size. I have also checked for spider mites no bugs on this plant. and I am wondering what I am doing wrong. The leaves in the middle are coming out great, nice and green and very healthy looking but once the leaves get about 8-10 in long they start to turn yellow then brown on the edges. Does anyone out there have any advise on this. Thanks Aloha,--- Original message by spops on Aug 1, 2006 10:50 AM It seems to be a mystery to me too. I have a few questions for you so I can have some idea what your plant is going through. How many leaves does you plant have? How tall is it? Is the trunk of your mother plant thick or thin? Does it look robust or wan? Do the leaves turn yellow all together or from the edges first? How often do you feed? At this moment, my banana trees have yellow leaves also, but they're the older leaves and I expect that to happen. The plant has healthy upper leaves, about 5-7 of them. The leaves turned yellow altogether and they will eventually turn brown and dry up if I don't cut them off first. Is this what's happening to you? Hopefully what is happening is normal. Look forward to hearing from you. Aloha Kahoa
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
Newcomer Aug 2, 2006 10:12 PM
(Total replies: 4)
Aloha, Sorry I don't know anything about or am familiar with Zebrina. But look in the forum for someone who hails from England. They have experience when Zebrina. Unfortunately I can't remeber the name but they did help another newcomer named Joan. Hope you find help and may your place look more tropical. Oh, by the way, Have you tried Canna? It's a banana relative whose rhyzomes are very easy to store during winter. You don't need to grow it indoors during the winter. Just let fall kill it to the ground, cutoff the dead stalks, dig up the rhyzomes and store in peat moss in a plactic bag during the winter in a dark, nonfrost place. It comes in a variety of flower and leaf colors. It's also very easy to start from seed although you might have to wait a season or two for flower. A very tropical looking plant. Aloha KAHOA
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
SEPERATING PUPS Aug 2, 2006 09:56 PM
(Total replies: 2)
Aloha, You can seperate your pups now. But maybe you might want to wait until it's cooler just for yourself. But if you can handle the 100 degrees, then pick only the largest pups to seperate as they'll have a larger corm base to feed off of to adjust to independence and they will have an easier time growing. Since it's hot, make sure to water everyday until the first leaf unfurls completely. The plant will have likely grown new roots by then and well on its way to independece. If you want to be more sure of the plant's status then wait 'til the second leaf is growing out before stopping the watering. Good luck! Aloha KAHOA
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
Sub-arctic banana Jul 28, 2006 07:55 PM
(Total replies: 2)
Aloha, The little plants are called pups, they're babies of your plant. You do not need to remove the pups. They'll help the mother plant grow faster, especially if the plant is small. Banana are one of those that are communal plants, ie...one for all and all for one. So leave them, the more the merrier. If there comes a time when you want another plant, that is where you would get it from, but for now wait until your plant is full grown. When that is depends on the type and species. As for the location the window is fine. But you can put the plant out, even in Winnipeg, if the temperature is above 50 derees Fareheit, I don't know the conversion to Celsius. I live in UP MI, USA and I don't store my plants. I care for them throughout the year. It's not to say that it is not possible to store your plant. It's just that the plant will have to start all over again in the Spring and it can be a little complicated getting the right temperature and humidity to store the corm. Unlike it's relative the Canna, Banana tend to rot in storage if the right requirements are not met. You will have more luck at storage if your plant is a temperate tolerant species such as the Japanese Fiber Banana (Musa Basjoo). They can live in the ground in zone 6 (-20 during Winter). But even they need lots of mulch for protection in that zone. I bring out my plants when frost is over and bring them in before frost, usually October. I don't know how far north you live but if you use this general rule, you'll get by. I've been able to get by at 45 degrees outside at night but that's pushing it. If you decide to grow your plant indoors, give your plant as much light as possible during the Winter. A bright window will be fine. Keep the plant at temperatures above 45 degrees Farenheit, the warmer the better. 70 degrees is near perfect. If you can afford warmer, all the more better. Growth will slow because of the reduced light (unless you invest in Gro-Lights). That's normal for us up here this far north. I put my plants' pot in a bucket or water dish with about an inch of water for humidity. Humidity is important indoors during Winter when the air is dry. The leaves will get a brown dried edge when the humidity is too low. I spray mist daily during the coldest time of Winter which is usually the driest. I feed my plants throughout the year with Miracle-Gro liquid feeder. I follow the directions and it's safe. But I do cut the amount during Winter to application every other time instead of every watering. This is so NOT to encourage excessive growth which in Winter can be spindly and weak. Introduce your plant outside gradually as so not to sunburn the leaves. I put my plants as close to a bright window during Spring to help acclimate them to the increased sunlight. Then when the temps are right I put them in the shade of a filled out tree. It's a touchy feely thing when the plants do go outside and I almost always burn the leaves that grew out during the Winter. I cut them off once new leaves are growing. I hope this information helps. It's from trial and error. I'm originally from Hawai'i where I grew up with growing banana trees. They remind me of home and gives the yard a tropical look. Good luck! Write if you have additional questions. Aloha KAHOA
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
New banana plant looking hazy Jul 25, 2006 12:26 AM
(Total replies: 4)
Quote: uhh i planted it about a week ago and i am located in southern IL. i am not sure about the corm but the stem that is present has about an inch of green from dirt up. The rest is a brown color. Aloha,Thanks for your reply....looking forward to your next. --- Original message by TheAsian86 on Jul 23, 2006 10:40 PM Southern Illinois, you're in zone 6. You can have you plant outside 'til late October. Just keep an ear out for any early frost which is not likely that early in your area. I use to live up north close to Dixion/Sterling, IL, near a tiny little town called Tampico. Could grow alot of stuff down there. I'm in the Eastern UP Michigan now. Very cold & zone 4-5. Anyway, keep up the vigilence, you have lots of time this year for your baby to grow. Be a little patient and it will come. Remember just that little bit of green is good. It means that the plant is still alive. Aloha KAHOA
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
New banana plant looking hazy Jul 23, 2006 10:33 PM
(Total replies: 4)
Quote: I just purchased a banana tree and it is just the roots and corm and a little stem....well i have good drainage soil and good sun light and humidity and it is green by the dirt but is really brown all the way up to the top. Is it dying or is this natural for a newly purchased one and will get better? Aloha,--- Original message by TheAsian86 on Jul 22, 2006 11:56 PM I would give your plant about 3-4 weeks to start. As long as there is some green and the corm is not mushy but firm, everything should be fine. How long ago did you actually plant it? And where are you located? Aloha KAHOA
Banana Growing tips- How to grow banana. »
Newcomer Jul 21, 2006 12:34 AM
(Total replies: 8)
Quote: Hello again Jen. Just been looking at my plants and thought I might pass on a word of caution.If as you say you are growing your plant indoors then take care to guard against tiny insects that live on the underside of the leaves, mosty Red Spider Mite or similar. They produce tiny webs etc and can be seen with a magnifying glass !(not a pretty sight!!) the inevitable dry (although you say that you mist regularly) atmosphere encourages them. I have just sprayed and thoroughly wetted both the top and underside of the leaves and stem of my seedlings (Musa Zebrina and M. Velutina.) I spray with a proprietary brand such as a "bug gun" etc. I have never seen Banana plants growing in their natural habitat, I guess it is a beautiful sight. I got into growing them by buying a pack of "Banana" seeds . These turned out to be "Ensete Ventricosum.".If you see these seeds in your local catalogue then give them a try, very decorative, if a little difficult to germinate. Hows your plant? dont you just love the way each leaf is bigger than the last one!!!!!. Nice to hear from you, Sidney Parker. --- Original message by Sidney Parker on Jan 18, 2005 05:11 PM Mahalo Sidney, I really appreciate the advice you gave to Jen. It lend me hope that I too may one day have fruit from my Cavendish I recently purchased. I grew up in Hawai'i and had watch and grown my own banana plants. I missed them so much that I jumped at the chance at growing one here in the Upper Pennisula of Michigan, USA. And I am glad to read that the ability for Cavendish to fruit indoors was not just commercial hype. I already grow tropical gingers and ti (dracenas) plants from Hawai'i successfully to bloom, here in Michgan. And I finally have been successful at coaxing a bird-of-paradise to bloom, although it took me 10 years. So there is hope for Jen although she may have to wait a while (maybe not as long as I with your advice). Again, I thank you for giving your insight and advice to this site. I do have a question of my own and I hope you can help. Do you know anything about tropical gingers? Although I have had them bloom (I have 6 species), only 2 of them (the species) have had any kind of inflorescence. I would appreciate greatly any insight you may have on this subject as no one has replied to my inquiries as yet at this site. Mahalo and Aloha, Kahoa
General Discussions. »
Bananas In Da Bahamas Jul 20, 2006 11:53 PM
(Total replies: 3)
Aloha, If you're wondering why you are watering more when you had 3 weeks of rain? You actually had three weeks of overfertilization with the chicken manure you had placed 2 months ago. It was the rain that activated the fertilizer and soaked it down into the soil. You'll now have to rinse away and dilute the same fertilizer to save the plants. In the end, this may benefit the plants once you strike the right balance of fertilizer around the plants' roots. I truly hope this helps. ALOHA KAHOA |
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