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green99 has contributed to 56 posts out of 2443 total posts
(2.29%) in 1,265 days (0.04 posts per day).
20 Most recent posts:
Spider mites are common when indoors in dry conditions. They are found on ther under side of the leaf. If you see teeny tiny dots, and possibly small webs then thats what you have. If so just mist semi daily under the leaves, and that should knock them back, this would also help if the are too dry indoors. If it's just cold that fairly easy to tell just by putting you hand near the window and feeling for drafts, or cold. Good luck, and make sure your not over watering cause that's a problem sometimes in winter also.
If it's a dwarf ornamental then it could be Musa ornata 'Royal Purple', or possibly burmese blue. I don't know too many others with purple fruit. Is it edible, and can you please post a pic here or at bananas.org Here's the banana ID forum- http://www.bananas.org/forumdisplay.php?f=12
Yes there are a few ways. One is by just looking at the overall foliage, stem ect. That works for some varities. If that doesn't give any clues, then you have to take pictures of the bloom, and the fruit(close ups of the bloom). Then go post it some where like bananas.org or go sift through all the pictures of the different banana pics at "We Be Bananas" website.
Actually there are several forms of Variegated Musa basjoo now, but hardly available. There is even variegated Musa sikkimensis. Go to bananas.org and join up since members there regularly share pictures of their varigated bananas. Just yesterday someone posted pics of his bananas and one was a varigated Musa sikkimensis 'Red Flash'. It's in the cold hardy bananas forum, under the tread "hardy Musa list". Anyways there have been many attempts (non successful yet) at Ae-Ae tissue culturing. It often sells for $200.00 for a pup on ebay, not many plants have that kind of demand.
Musa basjoo seeds aren't available, but Musa sikkimensis is another cold hardy banana that can be grown from seed, but it usually takes 100 seeds just to get a handful of starts(if your lucky). Buying an already growing plant would be a better deal for getting common bananas such as Musa sikkimensis, and basjoo, as well as Musa thompsonii(also cold hardy). For less common ones like Musa sikkimensis hybrid Daj giant go for the seeds since it is so new that there aren't plants for sale yet, and it's seems to be one of the fastest growing bananas from seed, probally as fast as Ensete ventricosum which is thought to be the fastest from seed. Good luck sprouting/growing.
Hi Joan, There were expeditions into the mountains of China that found E.glaucum growing at high elevations. BUT, E.glaucum is native through out southeast Asia, so the seeds could be from anywhere(from eastern India all the way to Paupa New Guneia). E.ventricosum is still the hardiest, followed by E.glaucum, then the numerous(3 or more) E.superbums. I overwintered in a cold house similar sized E.glaucums, and 2 kinds of superbums, and the E.glaucums came back in the spring. They seem to need dry winters, but not totally sure yet. GL
People sometimes consider bananas noxious weeds because they grow so fast in the tropics, so giving some room around the shower maybe a good idea. As far a type of banana, I'm not sure, but there is probally alot of local varities that would work great.
I just gave some friend some bamboo for kinda the same purpose around their jacuzzi. I definatly think bananas would be even nicer though. You may want to find a variety that is compact growing so it makes a good screen. Good luck, it sounds like a wonderful place to take a shower!
The first thing that comes to mind is overwatering. There are alot of diseases that effect bananas with M.acuminata parentage, but M.balbisiana, and other hardy wild ones are less suseptable to them. I really don't know but you may want to take pics and post on bananas.org.
The problem with taking plants outside is the plants will burn if you don't acclimate them first. If they are used to low light indoor conditions, then are put in full sun all the leaves will die, but it will come back. It's best to put outdoors in the shade then gradually expose them to more sunlight(after over a week). Good luck.
I can't get in without a language pack(administrative privaleges only). Could you give me another link or elaborate on the subject of mass production without tissue culturing. It seems to good to be true, but if it take less steps that's great(not to mention less chemicles?)
Olga, nice pic and name, they match well LOL. It really depends on what type of Musa it is, but generally tempature fluctuations(like warm spring time temps outdoors) make Musa, and ensete seeds germinate. You could buy a heat mat, and appliance timer or just sow them in a warm window or near the ceiling in a warm house(for easy species) this winter. I have been able to germinated REALLY old(well over a year) seeds so it's best not to through away any seeds. The fresher = faster germination. GL!
That's good news! It didn't have enough energy(or the top of the stem dried too much) to go out the top so it took a short cut. I have had them start to rot and die on the top, so I cut them down further and it came back. Bananas are a remarkable plant! Good luck with yours!
If you prop it up, this spring new roots will stabilize it. The same thing happened to my Ensete ventricosum 'maurelli' last winter, and this winter it is fine. They will also come back fast when you chop them back at the top of the stem.
Here's a shortened version from my experiences with cold hardiness of banana species sold as seeds from bananatree.com M.sikkimensis(zone7) M.balbisiana(zones 6-9 depending on origin of seed source). I haven't tried the ones from here, but the ones I got from another source are REALLY cold hardy. M.paradisica(zone 9 at best) Nice looking though. M.acuminata(possibly zone 8, but definatly more hardy than M.paradisica). M.violecea(zone 7) It's parents are flaviflora X velutina. M.velutina (zone7) M.zebrina (zone 9 at best) M. coccinea (zone 9 at best) Good luck!
It erased my message I spent an hour wrighting. oh well.
Good tips from wayneferr, and be careful not to over water the new corm as it is really easy to rot it at this critical stage. Keep it warm!
Heliconias don't seem to be very readily available, but fortunatly the most cold hardy species is widely available(H.schiendana, misspelled), because of tissue culturing. I haven't gotten any to blooming size yet, but am trying a few from Mexico, and one from southern Brazil. Sorry I can't be of more help. You may find info on the garden web if you do an archive search on the tropical plant forum.
Hi Donn, I wouldn't be able to give you a good guess, but if you post these pics on another forum(undisclosed because of rules) they might know. Email me or send a private message or I'll post them for you on that forum. There are real banana heads there that know their stuff. Nice pics! Kyle
They are a real pain for me too. I read that they have germination inhibitors in them, so they must be soaked. Have you tried germinating them in a zip lock with moist peat moss? This method seems to work well for hard to germinate seeds, and worked for my passiflora seeds. Expect anywhere from a week to over a month for germination..
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